Getting There - Aneel's Travelogue

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Oasis San Ignacio, Baja California Sur, Mexico, Wednesday, 01 July 2009 7:01pm

I filled my gas tank from one of the gas cans I've been carrying. Didn't even use the whole thing, so Chuck poured the rest into his bike. Also waxed my chain, which was looking a little red.

The road from Cataviña to points south was a little rougher than the road in, but still perfectly reasonable. The road was even emptier than yesterday for most of the way. It was also straight and flat enough that I had a chance to open up the throttle all the way in my top gear. Didn't get up to top speed, but probably came closer than I have in a while.

The lack of gas stations turned out to be a nonissue. The 7 or so liters that I put in were plenty to get to the next station, and we passed (and did not stop at) about a dozen signs offering gasoline not at a station.

After the downhill cruise from Cataviña, we briefly saw the Pacific coast again. We crossed the border into Baja California Sur, and stopped for lunch in Guerrero Negro. From there we headed back inland, this time into the Vizcaíno desert.

Unlike the rocky highland deserts, this area is sandy, and dominated by smaller cacti and shrubs. We passed one work crew sweeping sand off of the road. As befits a desert, it's really hot. Pretty reasonable while we're cruising between cities, but when we slow to pass through a town, it's uncomfortable.

When we arrived in San Ignacio, we were really ready for a dip. Fortunately, the village is in a palm oasis. There's a spring that feeds a river that supports the date palms. We pulled in, checked in to a yurt at a bed and breakfast place, walked a few yards, and jumped straight into the river. The water is warmer than any of the pools we've had at our hotels.

GPS Track: Day 5 240 mi


(Anonymously) Wednesday, 01 July 2009 7:41pm

I'm enjoying the ride, Aneel—sans the sweating and swimming!

I especially like following your route on the map—when I can. Not all the places you mention are noted...

I'm impressed that you find the time and energy to keep the travelogue going after a hard day's ride. Makes me think of what Bartolomeo de las Casas did on those fateful voyages or the great observer on the Beagle around Galapagos.